
Рыбки неоны: уход, кормление, разновидности, размножение
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Общие сведения
Аквариумные рыбки неоны из семейства Харациновые в настоящее время являются наиболее популярными обитателями домашних водоемов. В природных условиях они обитают в основном в бассейне Амазонки и бразильских реках. Широкое признание, которое неоны завоевали среди аквариумистов, объясняется их неприхотливостью, небольшими размерами, привлекательным внешним видом и миролюбивостью. Длина тела самцов достигает трех сантиметров, самок – трех с половиной сантиметров.
Существует несколько видов неонов, различающихся размерами и окрасом. Всех их объединяет один общий признак – тянущаяся вдоль всего тела полоса неонового цвета, выделяющая этих рыбок среди всех остальных. Для неонов характерны подвижность и стремление к нахождению в составе большой стаи. Поэтому им требуется простор. Самцы неонов примерно на полсантиметра меньше самок, обладают более стройным телом, а неоновые полоски на их боках имеют ровные четкие очертания, без изгибов. Самки характеризуются большей полнотой тела, неоновые полоски посередине изгибаются.
[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uHu8qXwi-Q[/embedyt]Требования к уходу и условиям содержания неонов
Для содержания и разведения четырех неонов достаточно аквариума объемом десять литров. Однако поскольку они относятся к стайным рыбкам, желательно обеспечить условия для содержания более многочисленной группы в более вместительном питомнике. Вода должна подвергаться аэрации и фильтрации, каждую неделю необходимо заменять одну треть воды в аквариуме. Освещение должно быть умеренным, при этом в домашнем водоеме необходимо обустроить затемненные зоны с помощью зарослей грунтовых и плавающих водорослей. Накрывать емкость необязательно, поскольку неоны, несмотря на свою юркость, не выпрыгивают из нее.
Для оформления можно использовать коряги, гроты, камни и другие укрытия. Важно только обязательно обеспечить открытое пространство, чтобы домашние питомцы могли свободно плавать. От использования аквариумных препаратов с содержанием меди следует отказаться, поскольку неоны не переносят это вещество.
Задний фон и грунт должны быть выдержаны в темных тонах. Благодаря этому окрас неонов становится более ярким. Надо помнить о том, что хотя уход за этими рыбками намного проще, чем за другими обитателями домашних водоемов, они очень чувствительны к стрессу. Поэтому при транспортировке или пересадке неоны могут терять свой яркий окрас.
Между продолжительностью жизни этих домашних питомцев и температурой воды в резервуаре, где они содержатся, существует непосредственная связь. При температуре двадцать семь градусов по Цельсию неоны живут полтора года, при температуре двадцать два градуса по Цельсию – три года, при температуре восемнадцать градусов по Цельсию – четыре года. Таким образом, чем выше температура, тем быстрее они погибают. Поэтому для увеличения срока жизни неонов их следует содержать в прохладной воде. При этом вода должна быть чистой и мягкой.
Кормление и рацион
Залогом успешного содержания аквариумных рыбок является соблюдение фундаментального правила: питание должно быть разнообразным и сбалансированным. Нельзя допускать монотонности кормления, в рацион питания необходимо включать как живые, так и сухие корма. Приобретая любой вид корма, следует обращать внимание на дату его изготовления и продолжительность хранения.
Кормить неонов надо один раз в сутки. Они являются всеядными, так что можно использовать в этих целях любые виды корма, кроме крупных, которые они не могут проглотить из-за своих небольших размеров. Неоны обожают живой корм: личинок комаров, артемию, мотыля, дафнию и циклопа. Корм они берут с водной поверхности, погрузившаяся на дно пища обычно остается нетронутой. Именно по этой причине кормить их нужно небольшими порциями, чтобы они успевали съедать корм раньше, чем он окажется на дне.
Необходимо помнить, что неоны склонны к ожирению. По этой причине надо время от времени менять корма и раз в неделю оставлять их без еды, что в будет способствовать сохранению их здоровья.
Виды неонов
Количество разновидностей неонов достаточно велико. Одни из них широко распространены в природе, другие были выведены искусственным путем и в естественных условиях не встречаются.
Самая распространенная разновидность – голубой или обыкновенный неон. Он имеет очень яркий окрас. По всему верху тела пролегает полоска бирюзово-синего цвета, нижняя часть тела наполовину окрашена в красный цвет, спина – коричнево-сероватая, все плавники прозрачные. Отличительная особенность этой разновидности состоит в длинном, вытянутом теле.
На боках красных неонов имеются ярко-красные полосы. Спинка окрашена в оливково-бежевый цвет, от жирового плавника пролегает горизонтальная светящаяся полоска, цвет которой изменяется при разном спектре освещения.
Синий неон похож на голубого, поэтому аквариумисты их нередко путают. Эта разновидность представляет собой помесь красного и голубого неона. Ее отличительная особенность состоит в длинном теле, посередине которого пролегает неоновая полоса.
Черный неон в естественных условиях обитает в бразильских реках Рио Тагуари и Рио Парагвай. В настоящее время продажа пойманных в них особей запрещена, поэтому их разводят в домашних водоемах и на рыбных фермах. Внешне они похожи на голубых неонов, но полоска на теле имеет не голубой цвет, а черный.
Тело зеленого неона окрашено в голубовато-зеленый цвет и мерцает разноцветными бликами под разными спектрами освещения. В продаже преимущественно встречаются особи, пойманные в южноамериканских реках. Они обладают высокими адаптивными способностями и выносливостью, поэтому легко приживаются в неволе.

Зеленый неон
Тело алмазного или бриллиантового неона имеет светлый окрас. Неоновой полосы на нем нет. Хвост окрашен в красноватый цвет.
Золотые неоны украшены золотой полоской, проходящей вдоль всего тела. Это самые миниатюрные из всех представителей данного вида. Если длина остальных неонов составляет три-четыре сантиметра, то максимальная длина золотого достигает только полутора сантиметров.
Вуалевый неон имеет плавники характерной вуалевой формы. Эта разновидность встречается крайне редко и стоит намного дороже остальных.

Вуалевые неоны
Совместимость с другими рыбами
Неоны совместимы с не агрессивными, миролюбивыми рыбками, включая гуппи, тетр, молли, орнатусов, расборов, меченосцев, пульхеров, пецилий, фонариков. Верными спутниками и помощниками неонов являются крапчатые сомики (коридорасы).
Поселять неонов вместе с крупными обитателями домашнего водоема не следует ни в коем случае. Они совершенно несовместимы с гурами, барбусами, цихлами, скаляриями, золотыми рыбками, астронотусами и лабео.
Чем болеют неоны
Неоны подвержены многим заболеваниям, как инфекционным, так и неинфекционным. Определить ухудшение самочувствия у этих рыбок можно по побледнению их окраса. В крайней ситуации они могут полностью посереть, при этом неоновая полоска, проходящая вдоль всего тела, становится почти незаметной.
Стресс у неонов может вызываться агрессией со стороны соседей по аквариуму, ярким освещением, отсутствием сородичей, повышенной температурой воды. Нередко в таких ситуациях у этих домашних питомцев развивается болезнь под названием ихтиофтироз, известная также как «манка».
Есть у них и собственная болезнь, присущая только этому виду – плистофороз, иначе называемая «неоновой болезнью». Излечить ее практически невозможно.
Размножение и разведение
Размножение неонов не представляет особой сложности. Половая зрелость у этих рыбок наступает в возрасте шесть-девять месяцев. Оптимальным возрастом для нереста считается период от десяти до двенадцати месяцев.
Первоначально производителям обеспечивают максимально комфортные условия содержания, что выражается в наличии просторного аквариума, в разнообразном корме и оптимальных параметрах воды. Затем самцов отделяют от самок, снижают температуру воды до девятнадцати градусов по Цельсию и на протяжении двух недель щедро снабжают производителей живыми кормами.
Для размножения неонов используется специально подготовленный нерестовый резервуар длиной не менее сорока сантиметров. На его дно вместо грунта устанавливают сепараторную сетку, по бокам, сзади и снизу нерестовик затемняют. Глубина воды в нерестовом резервуаре должна составлять пятнадцать сантиметров, температура – от двадцати до двадцати двух градусов по Цельсию, жесткость – до 2 dH, кислотность – от 5,5 до 6,5 рН. Освещение должно быть только естественным. Очень важно четко соблюдать данные параметры воды и условия содержания в нерестовике. В чересчур жесткой воде сперматозоиды не смогут оплодотворить икринки, а от избытка света икринки погибнут.
Самцов и самок помещают в нерестовик ближе к вечеру из расчета один самец на одну самку или три самца на одну самку. Как правило, нерест происходит на рассвете следующего дня, но иногда он затягивается на трое суток. Во время нереста производителей ничем не кормят.
Каждая самка мечет за один раз от пятидесяти до двухсот икринок. Производителей отсаживают немедленно после икрометания, поскольку они поедают мальков. Нерестовик полностью затемняют. На протяжении четырех часов после окончания нереста необходимо следить за икрой и при обнаружении побелевших икринок незамедлительно их удалять.
Личинки появляются примерно через двадцать два часа и в течение четырех-пяти суток висят, почти не двигаясь. Затем мальки начинают плавать. С этого момента их надо часто кормить небольшими порциями, используя инфузорию, коловратку, перетертый желток вареных яиц, а также специальные корма для молодняка, которые продаются во многих зоомагазинах. Освещение надо усиливать постепенно в течение месяца.
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